![]() When you say it feels like a switch is flipped many cars run in open-loop (no or limited sensor feedback) during the warm-up phase then once at operating temperature it goes closed-loop so all your sensor feedback signals are registered by the ECU which in turn helps it deliver appropriate timing, fuel and air. So again this would point to a sensor failure - each of which can be tested relatively easily with a voltmeter (plenty instructional videos on youtube) While unplugging the MAF sensor to test whether its the cause of your problems is fine, you should not continue driving without it. If the car acts the same (splutters and missfires on boost) it often suggests either a faulty coilpack(s) or a boost leak. I'd be thinking high potential for MAF or O2 sensor here, not your coolant sensor or TPS. If it drives well on boost in limp mode (shouldn't really let you rev high) this would indicate your ECU is stopping the car running correctly due to an error with the feedback signal from somewhere - you'll need to troubleshoot for this. If so it's putting your ecu into limp mode and you shouldn't be abusing the car on this mode, but it is worth testing a little boost to see if the car drives correctly, or the same (as this is where you're getting the issue). If a stronger air current passes over the membrane, the temperature difference between the measurement fields increases. ![]() The temperature is recorded by resistors on two defined measurement fields. Try unplugging your O2/TPS/ MAF after and see if they have the same result as unplugging your coolant sensor also test these with a voltmeter. The exact air mass is calculated by intake air-flowing over a heated sensor membrane. Test your coolant sensor connector for live and earth.
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